Photographing Mesa Arch at Sunset

Photographing Mesa Arch at Sunset

Mesa Arch in Canyonlands National Park is a hugely popular photo destination, with throngs of photographers mainly gathering at sunrise. I’ve had my fair share of early mornings as a landscape photographer, but I decided to go against the trend and photograph Mesa Arch at sunset instead. Admittedly this was mostly because an evening shoot fit better into a compressed visit, but it turned out to be the better call. There was room to enjoy a quiet moment, find a unique perspective, and take my time. By that hour most visitors have gone, and the scene felt calm and serene.

Sunrise or sunset at Mesa Arch?

They’re two different photographs, and it’s worth knowing which one you’re driving out for.

The arch faces east. At first light the underside catches reflected glow from the canyon wall below and the whole span turns a burning orange. It’s a genuinely spectacular effect, and the reason you’ll find forty tripods lined up in the dark. If that’s the image you want, there’s no substitute for setting the alarm.

At sunset the light does the opposite. It leaves the arch and goes out into the country the arch frames: the canyon, the towers, the far rim, the mountains on the horizon. You lose the icon and you gain the landscape.

So sunrise for the arch, sunset for everything visible through it. And if you’d rather not share a cliff edge with fifty strangers, that decision makes itself.

What sunset actually looks like there

The light leaves from the bottom up. The canyon directly below goes into shadow first and turns a deep blue-violet, so the floor reads as a cool, quiet void while everything above it is still warm. The far rim holds on longest. A hard band of orange runs along the clifftops, maybe a mile out, still burning after the canyon has gone dark. On this evening the La Sal Mountains were carrying snow, and they turned pink on the horizon while the foreground had already cooled. Warm light on the far edge, cold shadow in the middle, and the two never quite meet.

Look through the opening and you’ll pick out two spires standing off the canyon floor: Washer Woman Arch and Monster Tower. At sunrise they’re backlit and tend to vanish into the glare. At sunset they take side light first, then fall into silhouette against the lit rim behind them, a cleaner separation than the morning gives you. They’re worth a frame of their own before the light goes.

Then the sky does something the sunrise crowd never sees. Facing east, you’re looking at the half of the sky opposite the sun, and it stacks into bands: peach at the horizon, a pale wash above it, violet climbing all the way up over the arch. It deepens as the minutes pass rather than fading. Some of the best color arrived well after the sun was down, which is worth knowing if you’re the type to pack up when it drops.

The arch itself doesn’t go entirely flat. A soft warm reflection runs along the lower edge of the span, bounced up off sunlit rock rather than falling on it directly, and it separates the stone from the sky instead of letting it silhouette. Faint, but it’s the difference between a shape and a form.

And I had the place to myself. It was winter, and the temperature dropped the moment the sun did. It’s the kind of cold that arrives all at once rather than gradually. I could move along the rim, try a composition, change my mind, try another, with nobody’s tripod to work around and nobody waiting on the spot I was standing in. For a location this photographed, that freedom is rarer than the light.

It also meant I wasn’t limited to shooting through the arch. A short walk along the rim puts you on banded cliff edges looking straight out at Washer Woman Arch, Monster Tower and the La Sals. Same evening, same light, no sandstone frame.

Making a day of it

Most people drive in for Mesa Arch, but the Island in the Sky area of the park deserves a full day.

The mesa is a single road with the overlooks strung along it, so you can work your way out and finish at the arch. Shafer Canyon opens up almost as soon as you enter the park. Further on, Green River Overlook is the one that makes people go quiet. Canyon after canyon after canyon, at its best in flat afternoon light before the shadows take over. And if you stay out past sunset, the towers become the subject: Candlestick Tower catches the last of it from the western side of the mesa.

If you have more than one evening in the area, spend the second one outside the park. Dead Horse Point sits just beyond the boundary on the road back to Moab, a gooseneck of the Colorado River two thousand feet below a narrow neck of rock, and one of the great sunset positions in Utah. A third evening belongs in Arches, forty minutes away on the far side of town, where Double Arch holds light long after the crowds have thinned.

The photographs

Both Mesa Arch images from this evening are available as fine art prints on paper, canvas, metal and acrylic, in sizes to 48×72.

Mesa Arch Winter Sunset | Evening at Mesa Arch

The full story of this trip to Canyonlands, plus a visit to Copper Mountain, CO fro some black and white photography, is in From Red Rock Canyons to Snow-Capped Peaks.

Browse the full Canyonlands collection

Not sure what size suits your space? Read the print size guide

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